Unforgettable underwater encounters on the Coral Coast

The Coral Coast might be famous for its whale sharks but, as Carolyn Beasley discovers, a host of marine wonders await.

As I slip into the open ocean, my heart pounds. I’m searching the depths for a mighty creature. But I’m searching too deep and now, looking along the glassy surface, I see a fin is advancing towards me. I pop my head back under and startle; a wide, open mouth is just metres from me and I swim-scurry aside. The harmless whale shark is eight metres long, and my brain struggles to compute its sheer size and ethereal presence.

Rejoining the rest of the swimmers in my group, I fin alongside this muscular, mottled being, while a photographer snaps photos for an identification database.

Cape Range National Park, Coral Coast, WA — “As I slip into the open ocean, my heart pounds. I’m searching the depths for a mighty creature."

Climbing back on our boat, we’re all euphoric. Every one of us had come to Exmouth on the Coral Coast (1250 kilometres north of Perth) hoping to see a whale shark, and the experience has exceeded my expectations. But while I’m here, I’m discovering that the whole Coral Coast is an immersive marine bonanza. With its sparse population and pristine waters, the Coral Coast is a place to get wind-messed hair and salty skin, and taste lobster fresh from the sea. It’s a place to play didgeridoos with saltwater people. It’s a place to dive right in.

The coral reefs of the Houtman Abrolhos Islands

I’d started my journey further south, joining a five-day eco-cruise to the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, 60 kilometres west of Geraldton. It’s a stark and windy place, with 122 islands. It’s also the southern limit for coral reefs in the Indian Ocean, and one of Australia’s most important seabird nesting areas. We meet fishermen who live in colourful shacks while they’re catching Western rock lobsters (Australia’s first certified sustainable fishery). Our skipper has a special lobster licence too, and we chow down on the prized crustaceans.

Houtman Abrolhos Islands, Coral Coast, Western Australia — There is an abundance of sea life in the waters off the Houtman Abrolhos Islands. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The labyrinth of reefs here has deceived ships for centuries, most infamously the Dutch ship, Batavia in 1629. After the shipwreck, some 200 survivors tried to avoid deranged and murderous mutineers, and stepping ashore on the barren islands where it all happened is chilling.

Seals in Houtman Abrolhos Islands, Coral Coast, WA — Spot seals swimming off the Houtman Abrolhos Islands.

Today’s stories are happier though, as I fell in love on a deserted beach. My crush is basically an underwater puppy with flippers, zooming around me in an underwater romp. When I stop somersaulting, the young Australian sea lion is broken-hearted, sulking with puppy-dog eyes, and following me up the beach when it’s time to leave.

Coral Bay, Western Australia — Coral Bay is named after its beautiful coral gardens. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The marine life of Shark Bay

Making my way up the coast, I come to Shark Bay, the UNESCO World Heritage site that is famous for its stromatolites, 3.7 billion-year-old colonies of microbes, and extensive seagrass meadows that feed the world’s most significant population of dugongs, its other standout natural wonder.

Nearby at Monkey Mia, a strip of white beach wedges between red sand dunes and turquoise ocean. It is, of course, a favourite spot for Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins, their predecessors receiving fishy treats here since the 1960s. Today, the feeding is carefully regulated to ensure their wellbeing and protection.

Whale shark at Ningaloo Marine Park, Coral Coast, WA — Swim with a whale shark at Ningaloo Marine Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

At 7:45am the next day I stand ankle-deep in water as the dolphins swim in, inspecting today’s long line of humans. Piccolo and Kiya, both with babies in tow, are circling the rangers, accepting a fish from lucky spectators before moving off.

About half an hour later, the dolphins return and the rangers offer snacks again. This time, without the crowds, I have an almost personal experience with the gorgeous dolphin families.

Red Bluff, Quobba Station, Coral Coast, WA — Red Bluff, Quobba Station, north of Carnarvon. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

First Nations tours of Shark Bay

First Nations people from the Malgana and Nhanda tribes have thrived in Shark Bay for millennia. Local Malgana and Nhanda man Darren ‘Capes’ Capewell of Wula Gura Nyinda Eco Adventures runs tours including stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking, but I’m joining his night tour, Didgeridoo Dreaming.

Capes wants to connect people to this Saltwater Country. Squatting in the sand, he instructs: “Let the white sand run through your hands and rub it a bit. It’s important not just to see Guthurraguda [Shark Bay] with your eyes, but also to feel it."

At a bonfire behind the dunes, the starry sky is intense as Capes pulls out his didgeridoo collection. Traditionally a male-only instrument, the men and boys in the group try the difficult lip-vibrating technique. Amid laughter and encouragement, the ladies get a lesson in playing the giant conch shell. Next, Capes cooks whole fish over campfire coals and we enthusiastically dig in.

Coral Coast, WA — One of the Houtman Abrolhos Islands with lobster fishing camps.

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A day trip to Dirk Hartog Island

In the morning, I set off from Shark Bay’s town of Denham, joining a day trip to raw and rugged Dirk Hartog Island, Australia’s most westerly point and the state’s biggest island. In the year 1616, Dutch Captain and spice trader Dirk Hartog landed here and nailed a pewter plate to a post, providing the first evidence of Europeans landing on this continent.

The island is now mostly a national park, but was previously a pastoral station. At the historic shearing quarters, circa 1880, we meet third-generation owners Kieran and Tory Wardle who run a stylish eco-lodge, and serve us homemade scones.

Steep Point, Shark Bay, WA — An aerial view of Steep Point, Shark Bay World Heritage Area. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

From here, we jump into four-wheel-drive vehicles and visit the blowholes, where ocean swells surge up through holes in a rock platform, sending spray skywards. We careen across sand dunes to Surf Point, gazing out to the mainland’s Steep Point in the distance. Here we see six loggerhead sea turtles bobbing masterfully through huge waves and, on the sheltered side, the shallows are teeming with baby sharks.

On the boat ride back, I try to round out my personal ‘Shark Bay Big Five’: turtles, sharks, dugongs, dolphins, and manta rays. I’ve ticked the first four, but the mantas prove illusive.

Emus in Coral Bay, WA — See native fauna such as emus.

Surfing Red Bluff

Back on the road north, I’m heading for Quobba Station, a working sheep station with 80 kilometres of rugged, coastal scenery, offering an authentic, Ecotourism Australia-certified stay. Quobba’s original claim to fame was land-based game fishing. The coast here flanks very deep water, and from the cliffs, fishers cast out using balloon floats to carry their bait out to the big pelagic fish. But for surfers, the drawcard here is Red Bluff, 55 kilometres north of the homestead. It’s an epic big wave, not for the faint-hearted spot.

Red Bluff Campsite, Quobba Station, Coral Coast, WA — The Red Bluff campsite at Quobba Station is on the southern boundary to Ningaloo Reef Marine Park.

Monster swell lines approach the imposing rusty headland, and from where I stand on the limestone point they’re terrifying. Surfers enter and exit via sharp rocks; it can be perilous, but the experienced surfers here are hooting and yelling at the thrills. Most visitors to the area choose to camp out, but there’s a cafe and even a day spa offering surf-recovery massages. Non-campers can book a retreat or bungalow; hard-floor safari tents with composting en suites and the ability to check the surf from your bed.

Red Bluff, Kalbarri National Park, Coral Coast, Western Australia — See the cliffs at Red Bluff, Kalbarri National Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Snorkelling at Coral Bay

The road to Exmouth, the final stop of my Coral Coast exploration, takes me past the tiny hamlet of Coral Bay. It’s snorkelling that beckons tourists here for reliable sightings of its 300 resident manta rays, but sadly for me, I’m out of time and as I drive past the turn-off I’m filled with regret about missing out on these gentle giants once again.

Coral Bay snorkelling — Searching for manta rays in Coral Bay. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The bountiful experiences of Ningaloo

As I sit on the deck of the boat after my whale shark interaction, I replay the day in my head. My sole aim this morning had been to see a whale shark, but after achieving that goal I’d also managed to meet skittish black-tip reef sharks, eyeball a green turtle, and even spy a snoozing leopard shark. Migrating humpback whales had splashed on the horizon, and I’d heard their soulful singing underwater.

I’m still exhilarated from our final swim when I hear the skipper from the flybridge. “Manta rays beside the boat!" he yells. I never expected this and, in a flurry of masks and fins, I’m back in the ocean in seconds.

Down below me, a majestic black-and-white figure glides like an underwater eagle, banking and wheeling, its cavernous mouth filtering megalitres of plankton-rich seawater. A second manta follows, and with delight I realise this one is entirely black, a rare form.

I can’t believe my luck, and this manta encounter is the icing on the cake. Unexpected and an utter delight, it’s much like the sublime Coral Coast itself.

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A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Self-drive from Perth to Geraldton in about five hours to start your tour, or fly to Geraldton, Monkey Mia or Exmouth.

Staying there:

Houtman Abrolhos Islands

Join the five-day Abrolhos Islands tour onboard the 32-passenger Eco Abrolhos.

Monkey Mia

The recently redeveloped beachfront RAC Monkey Dolphin Resort is located in the heart of Shark Bay and has excellent family facilities.

Manta rays in Coral Coast, WA — Watch the manta rays swim in Coral Coast’s clear waters. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Exmouth

Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort has resort facilities including a restaurant, bar and two pools, right on the beach.

Ningaloo Reef

Sal Salis offers ultra-luxe safari-style tents set within Cape Range National Park with kilometres of the Indian Ocean at your doorstep.

Camp Safari in Sal Salis, Coral Coast, WA — Have a relaxing stay at the camp safari in Sal Salis. (Image: Sal Salis)

Eating there:

Try Boughshed Restaurant in Monkey Mia, while Whalebone Brewery and Mantarays Bar and Brasserie are good choices in Exmouth.

From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.

Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.

From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.

Why Silversea?

Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.

Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.

silversea cruise ship pool deck — Take a dip in the pool deck.

1. Koolama Bay

Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.

Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.

King George Falls at koolama bay excursion on Silversea Kimberley Cruise — Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.

2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt

Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.

Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.

welcome to country on freshwater cove during silversea kimberley cruise — Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)

Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.

The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.

aerial view of Vansittart Bay, See it in you Silversea Kimberley Cruise. — Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

4. Horizontal Falls

Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.

With each tidal shift, the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley’s most mesmerising natural wonders.

Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". They are formed from a break in-between the McLarty Ranges reaching up to 25m in width. The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high on a King tide. — Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

5. Montgomery Reef

As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.

The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel, turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.

Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.

aerial view of boat going along Montgomery Reef — Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.

6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter

Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.

One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions, guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.

Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.

aerial view of mitchell falls on silversea helicopter excursion — See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art

The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant

Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.

Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.

Freshwater Cover Rock Art the kimberleys — Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

See the best of this incredible part of the world on a Silversea Kimberley cruise. Book your 10- or extended 16-day expedition voyage at silversea.com