A Stay At Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef Will Ruin You For All Other Stays

The true reward of a stay at Sal Salis is a reintroduction to the wonder of nature; leave your phone at home, forget about deadlines and prepare to dive in.

Conservation has been at the heart of Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef, since its inception. Travellers come here to swim with whale sharks, hike the ancient ranges of Cape Range National Park and fall asleep to the sound of waves crashing against the fringing reef.

The operators have always sought to conserve the region’s natural environment through educational and environmentally sound tourism operations. It’s this eco-centric approach that has seen it grow from a few tents scattered across the sand dunes to the luxury safari-style operation it is today.

Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef has prime position on the beachfront — The luxury safari-style campsite holds prime position on the shores of Ningaloo Reef.

Everything about the camp is designed to connect you to the environment and wildlife around you. From the ocean-facing placement of its tents – built to capture the coastal breeze and create a channel for airflow – to its approach to light and noise pollution, allowing you to witness uninterrupted star-speckled skies, and of course its location alongside UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef with its 500-plus species of fish, coral gardens and megafauna.

The camp is part of the Luxury Lodges of Australia collection, and its ‘experiential style of luxury’ taps into our deep desire for reconnection: to nature and each other. It’s what has kept guests returning year after year and placed it firmly at the top of bucket lists the world over. After three nights at Sal Salis, I can confirm it delivers all this and more. Rarely do I find a stay so unique that I immediately know I’ll return before I’ve left. But Sal Salis is one of those rare finds.

First impressions

I arrive at Sal Salis by guest transfer from Learmonth Airport in Exmouth and the group is quickly bundled into a buggy that winds its way through the sand dunes to deliver us to the lodge – the beating heart of camp life.

It’s here I find the daily included activities scrawled across the chalkboard; normally a combination of a guided snorkelling tour or a hike to nearby Mandu Mandu Gorge or Yardie Creek Gorge (more on that later).

The days activities are on a chalkboard at the Lodge at Sal Salis — The chalkboard is updated each evening with the next day’s activities. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Humpback whales can be seen breaching in the distance, evident from the faint blast of water on the horizon as we’re guided to our wilderness tent, a short walk from the lodge.

Sal Salis wilderness tents

There are 15 wilderness tents at Sal Salis plus one larger Honeymoon tent, each one blends into its surroundings and is positioned in the sand dunes to create a sense of seclusion and privacy. There is no need for devices. No bright lights. No mobile or internet coverage. Just the sounds of the ocean lull you to sleep at night and the butcherbird’s song wakes you in the morning.

The wilderness tent at Sal Salis — Staying in the wilderness tents is a highlight of staying at Sal Salis.

The eco wilderness tents accommodate two adults plus two children aged 10 and above sleeping in swag bedding. Each tent has its own bathroom with corrugated iron walls and a zip-up canvas shade that separates it from the bedroom.

The nature en-suite at Sal Salis — The tent’s en-suite features all the essentials.

At first, it might seem at odds with the luxury price tag; you have no air-conditioning, no daily towel change, no fridge, no power points – just a USB phone charger, a maximum of 20 litres of water per guest per day, timed three-minute showers and a long-drop composting toilet. But there is not one thing I miss; Sal Salis strikes the right balance between essential and non-essential comforts: the bed is a dream to sleep in, the private deck features a hammock and chairs, the nature en-suite is fitted with all the essentials and there is always a cool ocean breeze that rushes through the tent, making air-conditioning superfluous during the months Sal Salis is open for guests (April to early November). Then there is the food and wine.

The hammock on the deck of the wilderness tent at Sal Salis — Spend the afternoon on your deck in a hammock with a drink from the self-service bar.

The food and drink

Meals are served at the long communal tables in the open-air lodge. There’s a 24-hour self-serve bar stocked with wine, beer and spirits from across Western Australia, as well as mixers and non-alcoholic beverages of all kinds, a barista-style espresso coffee machine and tasty snacks lined up in jars for the taking.

Tables are set for dinner at The Lodge — Guests gather at the open-air Lodge for all meals. (Image: Katie Carlin)

I join the other guests each evening for canapes on the deck to watch the sun slip into the ocean and the sky erupts into fiery hues of red and orange before the colour drains from the sky.

Sunset canapes at Sal Salis — Arrive at the Lodge to enjoy sunset canapes before dinner. (Image: Katie Carlin)

The season’s chef whips up five-star dining creations with a menu that wouldn’t be out of place in Sydney’s best restaurants. Breakfast runs the gamut of smashed avocado toast and eggs to acai bowls and banana bread, with mussels or a hearty pumpkin salad for lunch, but it’s dinner that steals the show: a three-course set menu paired with the state’s best wines. Think crab tortellini, crispy pork belly, seared scallops and lamb rump. It’s not long before the combination of wine, food and communal tables coaxes out wild tales from the day’s adventures.

Canapes and cheese boards at Sal Salis — The cheese plates are not to be missed.

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Daily activities and experiences at Sal Salis

Days at Sal Salis are all about experiencing the wonders of your surroundings. Depending on the time of year, you’ll be swimming with whale sharks or humpback whales, watching turtles hatch or rising before dawn to explore Cape Range National Park on foot. The team arrange a daily roster of activities to suit the weather and tides that are included in your stay, but certain experiences are offered via local partners and need to be booked in advance.

Swim with whale sharks, Ningaloo Reef — Swim with whale sharks, the gentle giants of the ocean. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Hike Cape Range National Park

Ningaloo Reef isn’t the only natural wonderland to explore from Sal Salis, with the campsite also set within Cape Range National Park, there is just as much to experience on land.

This landscape holds one of WA’s most treasured environments as well as being one of great cultural significance for the Baiyungu, Thalanyji and Yinigurdira people. The discovery of Mandu Mandu Creek Rock Shelter, one of the oldest reliable sites of human habitation, uncovered a shell necklace dating back 32,000 years. Marine fossils can also be seen underfoot, and mysterious creatures – like the blind cave eel and blind gudgeon fish – live underground in the unique limestone karst system that was once an ancient reef. Over 90 per cent of these species are found only in this region.

Coral fossil in Cape Range National Park — Fossilised coral can be seen underfoot. (Image: Katie Carlin)

The camp runs two guided tours depending on the conditions. One is a hike to Mandu Mandu Gorge just two kilometres from camp, and the second is Yardie Creek Gorge, located a little further afield. Of course, the daily tours don’t take you into the cave system, but the wildlife and views above ground are just as fascinating.

Mandu Mandu Gorge Walk in Cape Range National Park — Early morning or late afternoon is the best time to start the Mandu Mandu Gorge walk. (Image: Katie Carlin)

I set out with the group just before dawn along the Mandu Mandu Gorge trail, I only have time for one of the two hikes in my three days at camp. The moderately difficult three-kilometre trail traces its way through a stone-filled creek bed, our guide points out several black-flanked rock wallabies perched on the surrounding red-stone cliffs.

The black-flanked rock wallabies in Cape Range National Park are most active of the morning. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Two emerge from the bushes in front of us and unexpectedly start facing off in what can only be described as part boxing match, part tango with the occasional headlock thrown in. The dance continues for five minutes before one surrenders and slinks back into the bushes out of sight.

The trek through the creek bed is followed by a steep climb to the gorge rim, we spot fossilised coral as we walk and are met with spectacular views of Ningaloo Reef and the surrounding national park at the top.

If you’re lucky you’ll also spot raptors, spinifex pigeons, greyheaded and brown honeyeaters, pied butcherbirds as well as little corella, rainbow-bee-eater and western bowerbirds, all of which frequent the gorge.

Views of Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef from Mandu Mandu Gorge Walk — Views of Ningaloo Reef and the gorge from above. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Sal Salis runs guided tours first thing in the morning or late afternoon.

Swim with megafauna onboard Live Ningaloo

Whale shark season is over and my expectation of seeing these gentle giants up close is low. We have our sights set on swimming with humpback whales today and I’ve joined a small group tour with Live Ningaloo.

Live Ningaloo is the only operator that offers single-swim small-group wildlife interactions in Exmouth. The award-winning Eco Certified tour operator accommodates 10 guests for whale shark tours and seven guests for humpback tours to ensure minimal disturbance to marine life and a maximised experience for guests.

In water guide snorkels on Ningaloo Reef — The tour also includes time to explore the coral and marine life. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

It’s not long into our journey out past the reef when the pilot circling the reef above radios to say she’s spotted a whale shark nearby. Gripping onto the rail as we race towards the sighting; one hand is not enough to keep me steady. An explosion of water appears ahead of us. A humpback whale breaches, a calf half her size follows her lead, spiralling into the air and flopping back down with gusto.

An enthusiastic humpback whale calf at play. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

Our skipper reluctantly pulls us away from the humpbacks at play – our turn to swim with the whale shark is fast approaching. There are 15 operators with a licence to run swimming tours on the reef and Live Ningaloo are one of the lucky few.

The tour group gathers at the back of the boat of Live Ningaloo — The small group tour is a highlight of any visit to Ningaloo Reef. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

Now in position, four of us slip into the water after our in-water guide, following her lead as she directs us to kick into position. I stick my head underwater at her direction and moments later I see a grey figure start to take shape in the distance. A seven-metre whale shark is now directly in front of me. I start swimming to keep up, its tail effortlessly propelling it through the crystal-clear waters of the reef. I’m mesmerised by the white spots scattered in intricate patterns across its back; shimmering as they catch streaks of sunlight. Our guide signals that our time is up and I reluctantly watch it swim out of view.

Whale shark swim with Live Ningaloo at Ningaloo Reef — The writer swimming with a whale shark. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

Whale shark season runs from March to July and humpback season from June to mid-October. Advance bookings for all tours are essential. You can also offset your trip’s carbon emissions for a small fee to support the operator’s sustainable practices and reduce your ecological footprint. Prices start from $750 per person.

Turtle on Ningaloo Reef — Plenty of other marine life are also on show during the tour. (Image: Live Ningaloo/ Justin Bumpstead)

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Snorkelling Ningaloo Reef

Grab a snorkel and some fins from camp and walk 50 metres to the beach. There’s no need to catch a boat, the marine life of the fringing reef can be experienced just offshore. You’ll find an array of colourful fish, turtles resting among corals, lagoon rays and harmless reef sharks. If it’s your first time snorkelling the team can arrange a guided drift snorkel. Kayaking and stand-up paddleboards are also available to borrow when the conditions are right or join a guided kayak tour.

The beach is 50 metres from the tents at Sal Salis.

Turtle nesting season

Nesting season for Green Sea Turtles happens between November and March; previously Sal Salis served canapes to guests as they waited for turtles to hatch on the sand just a short walk from the lodge. It’s in moments like this when the true luxury experience of Sal Salis is revealed.

I’m visiting in late September, just in time for mating season at Ningaloo. Hundreds upon hundreds of them gather to mate just offshore at this time of year. If you’re lucky enough to witness this phenomenon, it’s important to keep your distance. If you disturb a female turtle resting on the beach, she’ll return to the water and likely drown.

I follow our guide up the side of a sand dune, the wind blows more fiercely the higher we climb. At the top a perfect crescent-shaped stretch of sand greets turquoise waters filled with hundreds of turtles bobbing in the waves. I soon realise several of them are bobbing in piles of three or four. The females mounted by multiple male turtles at a time. It’s a unique sight to behold, but there’d be no turtle-hatching season without it.

Turtle mating season at Ningaloo Reef is a sight to behold. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Sustainability and conservation

The ethos of the Eco Certified bush camp; its guiding principles of minimal impact and sustainability are reflected in the measures Sal Salis has taken to protect its environment: construction of the camp is above ground level to protect the flora and fauna, power is solar generated, water usage is carefully managed to avoid weed growth, no waste material escapes into the surrounding ecosystem. Every detail has been thought of, even down to the reef-safe sunscreen and toiletries.

The eco-certified Sal Salis — The luxury camp’s operation is guided by principles of minimal impact and sustainability.

The camp operates in partnership with Western Australia’s Parks and Wildlife Service and in addition to the park entry fees, five per cent of its turnover goes towards supporting the conservation work of Western Australia’s Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions, Parks and Wildlife Service. It’s a glowing example of how your tourism dollar can be put to good use.

Bird life at Sal Salis — A local visits the guests at camp. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Staying there

Eco Certified Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef offers 15 wilderness tents and one honeymoon tent built amongst the sand dunes in Cape Range National Park on the shores of Ningaloo Reef on the Coral Coast of WA. The season runs from mid-March to mid-November and the all-inclusive stay covers all food and drink, activities and snorkel gear, and accommodation. Seasonal rates range from $895 to $1195 per person twin share with a minimum stay of two nights. Children aged 10 and above are welcome from $415 to $545 per night in swag bedding. Special rates are available for longer stays.

Sal Salis Lodge — A stay at Sal Salis is a trip of a lifetime. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Getting there

Sal Salis is located 90 minutes by vehicle from Exmouth. Sal Salis operates scheduled guest transfers are available from Learmonth Airport if organised in advance.

The East Kimberley should be on every bucket list, and here’s why.

Livistona palms soar out of chasms the colour of Valencia oranges. Shady waterholes beckon travellers daring to venture off the bitumen. From the air, fruit farms give way to vast plains that meet rolling hills and fascinating geological formations centuries in the making. The East Kimberley is one of Australia’s most treasured wilderness areas, but don’t be fooled by its rust-coloured roads. This north-eastern corner of Western Australia is home to some of Australia’s most iconic stays by Discovery Resorts that should be on everyone’s bucket list.

A group of people enjoy an intimate dining experience at El Questro Homestead. — Dine in the heart of nature.

Your guide to Lake Argyle

The backstory

With rolling hills that glow amber at sunrise and glassy water that reflects the Kimberley’s bright blue sky, a visit to Lake Argyle is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As Australia’s second-largest man-made freshwater lake, travellers flock here to soak in the views from boats, helicopters and Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle.

The latter is a lakeside oasis, a resort where travellers crossing from Western Australia into the Northern Territory (or vice versa) converge. Fifty minutes’ drive south of Kununurra, the property is perched atop a cliff overlooking the sprawling Lake Argyle.

Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle was originally built in the late 1960s to provide accommodation for builders of the Ord River dam, which formed Lake Argyle. In the decades that followed it had several owners, until a Kununurra local took the reins in 2004 and reinvented the property with luxury villas and its now world-famous infinity pool. The iconic property was added to the Discovery Resorts portfolio in 2021, undergoing a major upgrade that took the resort from a beloved campground to an all-encompassing resort with premium waterfront villas.

A boat glides across the expansive waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by the breathtaking landscapes of the Kimberley. As part of the Discovery Holiday Parks experience, this unforgettable journey offers adventure and relaxation. — Glide across the vast, shimmering waters of Lake Argyle.

The rooms

A lakeside resort like no other, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle offers something for everyone, from campsites to villas and cabins. The Deluxe Lakeview Cabins have views of the opposing cliff and are surrounded by bush, ensuring plenty of privacy, while both the Deluxe and Standard Cabins are ideal for families, with contemporary furnishings and one, two or four bedrooms. The campsites also come in a variety of sizes.

The facilities

There’s no doubt the biggest drawcard to Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is the lake, 20 times the size of Sydney Harbour. One of the best ways to experience it is on the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer Cruise, during which you’ll see freshwater crocodiles nesting along the banks (it’s home to 30,000 freshies) and even get the chance to swim in their waters. The cruise also takes in Mt Misery, towering above the original and now submerged Argyle Downs Homestead.

If you have young children who need to get to bed early, a great alternative is the three-hour Lunch Explorer Cruise. You’ll tour around the lake’s bays as you learn about the local wildlife before stopping at a remote island for a swim.

Refuel between adventures at the onsite pub-style eatery, The Lake Argyle Cafe. The cafe is the heart of the resort, bringing together friends new and old over a steak, cold beer and live music. Hours vary with the seasons, but rest assured you’ll be able to enjoy a good feed year-round, with a well-stocked general store also open during the day.

Cool off from a day of exploring in the striking infinity pool with some of the best views in the country (you’ll find sweeping views of the lake below). Or enjoy a flight with HeliSpirit, or clear your mind during a yoga class on the lawn.

Two people unwind in an infinity pool, overlooking stunning Lake Argyle at Discovery Holiday Parks. — Take a dip in the infinity pool and soak in breathtaking Lake Argyle views.

Your guide to El Questro

The backstory

One of the most famous stays in Australia is El Questro. A former cattle station, it’s evolved into one of the country’s most recognisable tourism destinations over the past 30 years, and is now embarking on a new chapter to elevate the region’s rich First Nations culture.

The property draws travellers seeking to reconnect with nature and the beauty of this country. Wild in spirit but immaculate in style, El Questro is a 283,000-hectare property like no other; surrounded by dramatic gorges, impressive mountain ranges, thermal springs, secluded waterfalls and even rainforest, it’s the perfect base for adventurous souls.

A person floats leisurely in the river at Discovery Holiday Parks, immersed in nature’s tranquillity. — Float along Zebedee Springs and immerse in nature.

The rooms

Across the sprawling El Questro are three properties catering to the wide variety of travellers who journey this way. The most impressive is the luxurious Homestead, where 10 suites perch at the edge of a burnt-orange cliff, with cantilevered bedrooms over the peaceful Chamberlain River. The adults-only, all-inclusive Homestead is a member of the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia collection and offers a backdrop of thick bushland; riverside, you’ll find an immaculate lawn and a shaded pool that lures guests out of their rooms.

At Emma Gorge, travellers will be immersed in the beauty of the Cockburn Ranges, falling asleep to the sounds of wildlife in safari-style tented cabins. This is where you come if you want to completely connect with your environment while retaining a few creature comforts. The Emma Gorge Tented Cabins sleep three or four people and feature private ensuites and ceiling fans.

Families also love The Station, home to simple yet comfortable air-conditioned rooms, as well as a large, leafy campground. Sitting by the Pentecost River, The Station is open from April to October and has a range of accommodation, from unpowered and powered campsites to air-conditioned tents for two people and a Gardenview Family Room for five.

Two people stand beside a suite perched on the edge of a striking burnt-orange cliff, gazing out over the serene Chamberlain River below. — Take a breather with stunning views of nature all around.

The facilities

Located in the heart of the Kimberley, El Questro retains its strong connection with its Traditional Owners, the Ngarinyin people. A highlight of a stay here is the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us experience; over two hours, guests are immersed in the soul of Country by witnessing ancient healing rituals, listening to generational stories and learning about the land’s ancestral heritage.

Other experiences include bird watching, cruising through Chamberlain Gorge, hiking through Emma Gorge, horse riding, four-wheel-driving and soaking in Zebedee Springs. At the properties, you can also cool off in the pools, and relax in the restaurants or at private dining locations. A bonus of staying at The Homestead is the exclusive service of El Questro’s dedicated reservations team, who will craft a bespoke itinerary tailored to your travel tastes.

A group of people stand beside a tree, with a car parked nearby, taking in the surrounding natural beauty. — Experience thrilling nature activities.

Book your East Kimberley adventure today with Discovery Resorts.

A stay at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef will ruin all other stays for life

The true reward of a stay at Sal Salis is a reintroduction to the wonder of nature; leave your phone at home, forget about deadlines and prepare to dive in.

First impressions

Sal Salis wilderness tents

The food and drink