Perched on the edge of Australia, Esperance walks to its own beat, as former resident and long-time visitor Fleur Bainger can attest. Find out the striking qualities of Esperance that landed it at no.13 on your list of Top 50 Aussie towns.
When I moved to Western Australia nearly two decades ago, Esperance was my first stop. I still wonder if I should’ve stayed there. I spent six weeks working at the local ABC, and with every dawn drive past tourmaline-blue ocean polka-dotted with islands, I fell a little more in love.
Watching giant waves thunder to shore at North Point. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
A painting I bought capturing the transfixing coastline and its long row of Norfolk pines still hangs on my wall, reminding me every day of this isolated town clutching on tight to the far southern rim of Western Australia.
Astonishing white beaches and glass-clear waters
It’s close to nothing, and yet I’ve returned many times. Each visit, I’m drawn to the Great Ocean Drive, a 34-kilometre strip of bitumen that goes past so many flour-white beaches that it aches to keep on driving. I resist flicking the indicator until I reach Blue Haven, a cove of flat, glass-clear water that nibbles at rounded granite borders.
Esperance has breathtaking white sand beaches. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Luckily, the water temperature is so bracing, an up-to-the-knees frolic suffices, leaving me enough time for nearby Twilight Beach. Here, my camera focuses on a sculpted rock islet, which rises from the water with a circular scoop taken from its face. The erosion transforms it into a sentient being; it feels like a protective presence watching over the handful of swimmers before it.
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An illusive and undefined beauty like no other
I could go on forever about Esperance’s singular beauty – and I haven’t even mentioned Lucky Bay and those sunbathing roos – but it’s actually the locals that make the town special.
Overwhelmingly friendly, they bear a perceptible zest for life – perhaps a result of being so far-flung – leading them to go all-in on quirky ideas and fun activities. Their spirit is seen in shop windows, with colourful displays gracing the bike shop and the general store.
A booming industry for entrepreneurs
It extends to activities: a flying-pub crawl from beach to bush, run by Fly Esperance, is typical. It means that big ideas, like Lucky Bay Brewery, which brews beers with locally grown barley, rainwater and zero preservatives, come to fruition.
Enjoy a few amber ales at Lucky Bay Brewing. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
There’s enthusiasm for garage entrepreneurs, like Bread Local, which opens only on Friday afternoons. There’s a celebration of personable characters, like Fiona Shillington, who runs Esperance Chalet Village, a curated collection of white-on-white A-frames strung with fairy lights.
From your unique A-frame accommodation at Esperance Chalet Village. (Image: Marnie Hawson)
Perhaps most of all, they welcome out-of-towners, embracing the 24-year-old interstate reporter as warmly then as they do when she returns, at 43.
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Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
The East Kimberley should be on every bucket list, and here’s why.
Livistona palms soar out of chasms the colour of Valencia oranges. Shady waterholes beckon travellers daring to venture off the bitumen. From the air, fruit farms give way to vast plains that meet rolling hills and fascinating geological formations centuries in the making. The East Kimberley is one of Australia’s most treasured wilderness areas, but don’t be fooled by its rust-coloured roads. This north-eastern corner of Western Australia is home to some of Australia’s most iconic stays by Discovery Resorts that should be on everyone’s bucket list.
Dine in the heart of nature.
Your guide to Lake Argyle
The backstory
With rolling hills that glow amber at sunrise and glassy water that reflects the Kimberley’s bright blue sky, a visit to Lake Argyle is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As Australia’s second-largest man-made freshwater lake, travellers flock here to soak in the views from boats, helicopters and Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle.
The latter is a lakeside oasis, a resort where travellers crossing from Western Australia into the Northern Territory (or vice versa) converge. Fifty minutes’ drive south of Kununurra, the property is perched atop a cliff overlooking the sprawling Lake Argyle.
Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle was originally built in the late 1960s to provide accommodation for builders of the Ord River dam, which formed Lake Argyle. In the decades that followed it had several owners, until a Kununurra local took the reins in 2004 and reinvented the property with luxury villas and its now world-famous infinity pool. The iconic property was added to the Discovery Resorts portfolio in 2021, undergoing a major upgrade that took the resort from a beloved campground to an all-encompassing resort with premium waterfront villas.
Glide across the vast, shimmering waters of Lake Argyle.
The rooms
A lakeside resort like no other, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle offers something for everyone, from campsites to villas and cabins. The Deluxe Lakeview Cabins have views of the opposing cliff and are surrounded by bush, ensuring plenty of privacy, while both the Deluxe and Standard Cabins are ideal for families, with contemporary furnishings and one, two or four bedrooms. The campsites also come in a variety of sizes.
The facilities
There’s no doubt the biggest drawcard to Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is the lake, 20 times the size of Sydney Harbour. One of the best ways to experience it is on the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer Cruise, during which you’ll see freshwater crocodiles nesting along the banks (it’s home to 30,000 freshies) and even get the chance to swim in their waters. The cruise also takes in Mt Misery, towering above the original and now submerged Argyle Downs Homestead.
If you have young children who need to get to bed early, a great alternative is the three-hour Lunch Explorer Cruise. You’ll tour around the lake’s bays as you learn about the local wildlife before stopping at a remote island for a swim.
Refuel between adventures at the onsite pub-style eatery, The Lake Argyle Cafe. The cafe is the heart of the resort, bringing together friends new and old over a steak, cold beer and live music. Hours vary with the seasons, but rest assured you’ll be able to enjoy a good feed year-round, with a well-stocked general store also open during the day.
Cool off from a day of exploring in the striking infinity pool with some of the best views in the country (you’ll find sweeping views of the lake below). Or enjoy a flight with HeliSpirit, or clear your mind during a yoga class on the lawn.
Take a dip in the infinity pool and soak in breathtaking Lake Argyle views.
Your guide to El Questro
The backstory
One of the most famous stays in Australia is El Questro. A former cattle station, it’s evolved into one of the country’s most recognisable tourism destinations over the past 30 years, and is now embarking on a new chapter to elevate the region’s rich First Nations culture.
The property draws travellers seeking to reconnect with nature and the beauty of this country. Wild in spirit but immaculate in style, El Questro is a 283,000-hectare property like no other; surrounded by dramatic gorges, impressive mountain ranges, thermal springs, secluded waterfalls and even rainforest, it’s the perfect base for adventurous souls.
Float along Zebedee Springs and immerse in nature.
The rooms
Across the sprawling El Questro are three properties catering to the wide variety of travellers who journey this way. The most impressive is the luxurious Homestead, where 10 suites perch at the edge of a burnt-orange cliff, with cantilevered bedrooms over the peaceful Chamberlain River. The adults-only, all-inclusive Homestead is a member of the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia collection and offers a backdrop of thick bushland; riverside, you’ll find an immaculate lawn and a shaded pool that lures guests out of their rooms.
At Emma Gorge, travellers will be immersed in the beauty of the Cockburn Ranges, falling asleep to the sounds of wildlife in safari-style tented cabins. This is where you come if you want to completely connect with your environment while retaining a few creature comforts. The Emma Gorge Tented Cabins sleep three or four people and feature private ensuites and ceiling fans.
Families also love The Station, home to simple yet comfortable air-conditioned rooms, as well as a large, leafy campground. Sitting by the Pentecost River, The Station is open from April to October and has a range of accommodation, from unpowered and powered campsites to air-conditioned tents for two people and a Gardenview Family Room for five.
Take a breather with stunning views of nature all around.
The facilities
Located in the heart of the Kimberley, El Questro retains its strong connection with its Traditional Owners, the Ngarinyin people. A highlight of a stay here is the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us experience; over two hours, guests are immersed in the soul of Country by witnessing ancient healing rituals, listening to generational stories and learning about the land’s ancestral heritage.
Other experiences include bird watching, cruising through Chamberlain Gorge, hiking through Emma Gorge, horse riding, four-wheel-driving and soaking in Zebedee Springs. At the properties, you can also cool off in the pools, and relax in the restaurants or at private dining locations. A bonus of staying at The Homestead is the exclusive service of El Questro’s dedicated reservations team, who will craft a bespoke itinerary tailored to your travel tastes.
