Snow days in Thredbo

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Since falling hard for Thredbo on a snow trip more than a decade ago, I’ve become a passionate advocate for Australia’s own winter wonderland.

Regrettably, I was a latecomer to snow holidays and their affiliated joys. While I’d always longed to frolic in water’s crystalline form, circumstance and a northern coastal upbringing kept me away until my mid-twenties.

By then, film-fuelled notions of knitted Fair Isle jumpers, mulled wine sipped by log fires and pine-hemmed gingerbread houses dusted in sugary snow were hard-set in my mind as benchmarks for wintry beauty.

First impressions

So, when in the early bloom of a new relationship, my then-boyfriend (spoiler: now husband) took me to Thredbo, expectations were high.

This must be true love and surely will unlock new levels of romance. There will be cute beanies, mountaintop embraces and I will, of course, be fabulous at snowboarding, impressing with my obvious agility.

I was unprepared for two things. First, a new nemesis in the form of chairlifts (more on that later). Second, the astonishing loveliness of the Australian snowfields, which was not at all the cliché I had in my mind. If you’ve been to Thredbo, you know that winding down into the valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is a rush of anticipation that reveals a wildly undersold and, I personally think, under-celebrated landscape.

Thredbo landscape
The valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is an under-celebrated landscape. (Image: Salty Wings)

Light bounces from the snow-cloaked gum trees, glinting and winking with the promise of smooth, white runs beyond. Streams trickle icily between soft alabaster banks, where sturdy, native grasses emerge like an echidna’s spikes. Beyond, chairlifts festoon the mountainside, their passengers dangling their heavy-booted legs as they chat excitedly about their next descent.

As the Snowies rise up behind forests of eucalypts, lit by the unmistakable vibrancy of an antipodean sun, the landscape is oddly foreign yet entirely familiar. We’re unaccustomed to seeing our sunburnt country soothed by a fluffy, white quilt, tucked into the corners of soaring mountain ranges, and so this scene has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality. It’s for that reason that I believe Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit.

Drone shot of Thredbo village and mountain
Seeing the scenery blanketed in snow has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality.

Naturally, there are other reasons, too. Not least the fact that this is a snow holiday that many east coasters can reasonably drive to – no passports or planes required. You also needn’t ski or snowboard to enjoy a winter interlude, as there’s so much amenity and activity built into the season’s calendar, from events and tours to gentle gondola rides and dinners at Eagles Nest, the highest restaurant in Australia.

Family standing on bridge looking over valley in Thredbo
Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit. (Image: Destination NSW)

Why Thredbo needs to be on your winter hit list

Since that first trip to Thredbo, when I fell in love with this pocket of NSW (and aforementioned future-husband), I’ve been surprised by how often people opt to travel overseas instead of coming here.

Granted, the season is short and competes with a European summer for the holiday time slot, but here falls snow – in your own backyard. It’s utterly worthy of a mini-break. Yes, it can cost a bit if you’re comparing apples to oranges and looking at lift passes overseas, where the seasons are much longer and more populated. But there are also bird specials and budget-friendly options. And things start to level out when you remember that you’re not paying for an overseas airfare.

Aerial view of skiers at Thredbo
Join snow-goers as they slice the slopes. (Image: Salty Wings)

Back to those ski lifts, which, while repeatedly defeating me also fast-tracked my new relationship. Not to greater levels of romance, mind you, but rather comfortability, as I never once dismounted with any shred of dignity. All pretence of sporting prowess was swiftly bulldozed and so aching was my body from the effort to remain upright on a snowboard that romance was sidelined in favour of beer at the end of the day. It was a good time.

Karel's sunrise at Thredbo
You could have a love-hate relationship with the chairlift.

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Memory making adventures

Fourteen years later, the relationship has endured, as have my fond memories of that first Thredbo trip. I didn’t want the resulting humans of that union to miss out on childhood snow times like I did, so we piled into the car and drove to the snow. Because, you know, you can do that in Australia.

Skier at Thredbo
Make fond memories at the snow.

As it turns out, my inability to exit a chairlift without skidding into a jumble of limbs has also endured. So, I enlisted the help of an instructor who gallantly persevered with my tuition as I maintained my spotless record of crashing out of the chair and into nearby snow-goers. It didn’t matter to me that my skill level hadn’t changed, what mattered was that Thredbo hadn’t changed. It was still the wonderland I remembered. A playground of otherworldly beauty where the Australian bush is marshmallowed with pillowy snow and the landscape captivates from the flats to white-dipped peaks.

Snow shoeing at Thredbo
Thredbo is a playground of otherworldly beauty.

Still, in an effort to bypass any genetic lack of coordination, I enrolled my five-year-old son into Burton Riglets, the fantastic snowboarding school at Thredboland, which is set in the snowy playpen of Friday Flat. To the delight of my snow-sport enthusiast husband, the kid seemed a natural. But what I enjoyed most was watching his little face illuminate with sheer joy as his small hand formed around his first-ever snowball – which he then pegged with alarming accuracy and a questionable level of glee at his two-year-old sister.

A skier and a snowboarder at Thredbo
Enrol in lessons if it’s your first time hitting the slopes.

Freeze that image there, because if you’re a parent, that’s another reason why you should snow in Oz. Would I take two kids, one of them a toddler, on an international flight lugging snowboard bags and all manner of paraphernalia required to placate the ludicrous demands of children? Nope. But I can throw it all in the car and park directly at the snowfields. Even if you’re unencumbered by dependants, Thredbo is easy, beautiful and utterly magical. There’s nothing like seeing our dusty-green Australian bush softened by shimmering snowflakes. It’s enough to make you fall in love.

Thredbo sign
There’s no need to take kids overseas to see snow.

Where to stay in Thredbo

THREDBO ALPINE HOTEL

Lean into the ski village vibes at Thredbo Alpine Hotel with its chalet-style wood-panelled walls, easy access to lifts and cosy fireside bar.

Daytime exterior of Thredbo Alpine Hotel
Stay at Thredbo Alpine Hotel.

THREDBO ALPINE APARTMENTS

Great for groups, these self-contained village abodes make an ideal base for breaks in snow pursuits. Access to the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift is via a pedestrian bridge and you can easily shuttle to Friday Flat.

JINDABYNE

It’s just a 30-minute drive from Jindabyne to Thredbo, making the town a great and affordable place to stay with plenty of accommodation options.

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What to do in Thredbo

THREDBOLAND

Thredboland on Friday Flat is where skiing and snowboarding lessons for the young begin. The Snowsports School also caters to adults with private one-on-one or group lessons from beginners to advanced.

ON-MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCES

Each season, Thredbo launches its series of special experiences, from tours to dinners – don’t miss the four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte.

Kareela Hutte at Thredbo
Enjoy a four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte. (Image: Threbo Resort)

SATURDAY FIREWORKS

Coinciding with the adult flare run every Saturday is the fireworks display, which illuminates the ski fields with kaleidoscopic colour.

Where to eat and drink in Thredbo

MERRITTS MOUNTAIN HOUSE

Take the Merritts gondola for a good time with delicious fare and live music on the deck.

THE DENMAN

Set the mood to romance at The Denman’s casual but elegant Terrace Restaurant in the village. Stop by the bar first to recount the day’s triumphs before settling in for a well-finessed meal.

The Denman exterior at Thredbo
Set the mood for romance at The Denman.

Good to know

Get a jump on your holiday and book the early bird specials, which are released ahead of the opening season and offer significant discounts. Be mindful that opening week can be a risky time to go if snowfall hasn’t been abundant, so be prepared to just enjoy the beauty of the Snowies and the village vibe.

Thredbo guides in snow
Book the early bird specials to save money.

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Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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8 ways to discover a new side of Port Stephens

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    Aussies might think they know what Port Stephens is all about – but it’s time to take another look.

    You might’ve driven through this NSW coast town. Maybe even stopped for fish and chips or a quick dip. But spend a long weekend in the new Port Stephens, and you’ll seriously regret not doing it sooner. We’re talking treks across beaches, reef dives and up-close time with rescued koalas.

    All in all? It only takes a day before you see Port Stephens in a whole new light, and not much longer until it’s locked in as your favourite family destination.

    1. Stockton Sand Dunes

    Port Stephens incredible Stockton Sand Dunes are the largest moving sand mass in the Southern Hemisphere. They shift like an endless magic trick across the Worimi Conservation Lands, a 4200-hectare coastal co-managed by the Traditional Owners.

    Tear over them in a 4WD. Rev through valleys soft as melting ice cream on a quad. Carve down 30-metre slopes on a sandboard. However you choose to cross them, you’re guaranteed a seriously wild ride.

    Four rugged 4WDs kick up trails of golden dust as they charge across the sweeping desert landscape.
    Chase thrills across shifting sands. (Image: Destination NSW)

    2. Scale Tomaree Head Summit Walk

    A short climb through bushland opens up to the coastal drama of Tomaree Head. Spot Zenith, Wreck and Box Beaches. See the Fingal Island lighthouse and offshore rookeries where Australia’s rarest seabird, the Gould’s petrel, nests.

    History buffs can’t miss the WWII gun emplacements. And if you’re hiking between May and November, bring binoculars. Travelling whales might just be breaching below.

    Friends enjoying a scenic walk along the Tomaree Head Summit Walk in Tomaree National Park, Port Stephens.
    Climb Tomaree Head for jaw-dropping coastal views. (Image: Destination NSW)

    3. Watch out for whales

    You’ve seen the spouts of migrating humpbacks and southern right whales from shore. Set sail from Nelson Bay to see them up close. Cruise straight into the action, with tail-slaps, barrel rolls and all.

    And they’ve got competition from the local show-offs. Port Stephens bottlenose dolphins leap and play. Some tours even spot pudgy fur seals, spending lazy days soaking up the sun on Cabbage Tree Island.

    A whale’s tail on the sea’s surface.
    Watch for ocean tails. (Image: Destination NSW)

    4. Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary

    Pop into the Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary to learn about the rescued koalas who climb, nap, snack and heal in this natural patch of bushland. Wander the immersive Sanctuary Story Walk to discover more about their habits, then head to the SKYwalk – a treetop platform constructed for spotting these eucalyptus-loving locals. Peek into the hospital’s viewing window, where sick or injured koalas may be resting in their recovery enclosures.

    Not enough time around these adorable marsupials? Stay overnight in silk-lined glamping tents.

    Koala sleeping in a tree at Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary, One Mile
    See koalas in their natural habitat. (Image: Destination NSW)

    5. Diving Port Stephens

    Port Stephens has some of NSW’s best dive spots. At Fly Point, float through sponge gardens and coral castles thick with nudibranchs (AKA sea slugs). Halifax Park has blue gropers and crimson-banded wrasse, while Shoal Bay’s seagrass meadows hide pipefish, cuttlefish and octopus.

    Accessible only by boat, Broughton Island is home to a vast array of marine (and bird) life. Snorkel with blue devilfish and stingrays at sites like The Looking Glass and North Rock. More experienced divers can head out with one of the many PADI-certified operators.

    At nearby Cabbage Tree Island, expect to see shaggy-faced wobbegongs cruising along.

    A couple suited up and ready to dive into adventure.
    Suit up and dive into Port Stephens’ vibrant marine life. (Image: Destination NSW)

    6. Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters

    Not quite ready to dive in? Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters is the perfect way to spot local marine life without getting too deep. But there’s no obnoxious glass tank tapping here. Instead, this interactive aquarium allows guests to wade into natural-style lagoons that mimic the real thing.

    Gently pat Port Jackson and bamboo sharks, hand-feed rays, and feel their sandpapery skin with your fingertips. It is all under expert guidance. If you want to go deeper, pop on a wetsuit and swim alongside tawny nurse sharks, white-tipped reef sharks and zebra sharks in the lagoon.

    Family enjoying an animal feeding experience at Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters, Anna Bay.
    Meet the ocean’s friendliest faces at Irukandji. (Image: Destination NSW)

    7. Fish the estuaries

    Fishing fanatics will fall for Port Stephens hook, line and sinker. Here, one of the largest estuary systems in the whole state sees tidal rivers and mangrove ecosystems. Waterfronts are thick with oysters, and residential fish that might include anything from bream, whiting and flathead, to blue swimmer crabs, kingfish and longtail tuna.

    If you prefer to choose your own adventure and fish offshore, you can hire a boat from one of the marinas and set your own course.

    three men fishing on a boat in port stephens
    Join a tour or chart your own fishing trip. (Image: Destination NSW)

    8. Taste new Port Stephens flavours

    With plenty of activity to fill your days, refuelling on delectable cuisine becomes equally important. And Port Stephens answers the call.

    Pop into Holbert’s Oyster Farm for fresh-farmed Port Stephens rock oysters and Pacific oysters, Australian king and tiger prawns, as well as a variety of tasty sauces to try them with.

    Take a group to Atmos for an authentic Greek experience over large shared dishes and Greek-inspired cocktails. Or feast on sea-to-plate, modern Australian dishes at the pet-friendly Restaurant 2317.

    A plate of fresh oysters.
    Slurp your way through the region’s best oysters. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Start planning your Port Stephens getaway at portstephens.org.au.

    Snow Days In Thredbo - Australian Traveller