The quirky outback delights of The Kidman Way

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There are possibly no two terms that are more emblematic of the Australian outback than heading at the ‘back o’ Bourke’ or going past the Black Stump.

Both of these have become colloquial shorthand for the remoteness and otherworldly allure of the outback experience as a whole and can be found on one majestic roadtrip through the heart of New South Wales.

The Kidman Way cuts a swath through central NSW from Jerilderie in the south to Bourke in the north and hides some rather fascinating offbeat and quintessentially outback towns. Here is our guide to finding the best on one of the state’s best road trips.

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Griffith & Surrounds

Carrathool & Surrounds

Cobar & Surrounds

Bourke & Surrounds

Sunset orchard in Griffith
Sun sets over a local orchard in Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)

The 644-kilometre Kidman Way was named for pastoralist Sir Sidney Kidman, who in 1899 founded S. Kidman & Co, which would eventually become one of the world’s largest pastoral companies with land holdings estimated at anywhere between 220,000 kilometres square and 280,000 kilometres square – roughly the size of the entire United Kingdom, give or take – and long nurtured a vision for opening up the country’s vast inland.

The Paddle Vessel Jandra, Bourke
Jump onboard The Paddle Vessel Jandra and cruise down the Darling River in Bourke. (Image: Destination NSW)

Largely devoid of the ‘enterprise traffic’ of large trucks that clog many of Australia’s bitumen arteries, the Kidman Way is recognised as one of the country’s great outback drives.

Taking in the shires of Murrumbidgee, Griffith, Carrathool, Cobar and Bourke, the journey from one end to the other is best approached at a leisurely pace (plan on it taking at least five days), all the better to allow for ample time to appreciate the fascinating, quirky and largely undiscovered elements along the way.

Limone Dining, Griffith
Stop off at Griffith’s Limone Dining for a delicious feast. (Image: Destination NSW)

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Coleambally is the youngest town in New South Wales, having been founded in June 1968, and getting its very own post office on April 1, 1970.

 

The passion project of the Altin family, Altina Wildlife Park is a Nationally Accredited Exotic and Native Animal Breeding Facility dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction. Set out across 207 hectares of land on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River, the inhabitants here include everything from African crested porcupine to cheetah to red pandas to African lions, with plans for glamping and an expanded visitors centre well on their way. The personalised (and passionate) tour of the park on a horse-drawn carriage with staff leaves you in more awe of the ambition and work of this underappreciated Aussie gem.

Altina Wildlife Park, Altina
Altina Wildlife Park is dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction.

Jerilderie holds the distinction of being the only town in New South Wales raided by Ned Kelly in 1879 when, over a three-day stretch, he robbed the bank of more than £2000, locked the local police in their own cells, and held more than 30 hostages while shouting the bar at the Royal Mail Hotel, among other things. You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town, beginning at the Post and Telegraph Office and taking in 16 sites around town.

Ned Kelly Raid Trail, Jerilderie
You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town.

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Griffith & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Griffith’s City Park is home to the tallest climbing frame in the Southern Hemisphere (as well as a double flying fox and water splash park).

 

Water is the lifeblood of Griffith. John Oxley, an explorer back in 1817 dismissed the Griffith region as being ‘uninhabitable and useless to civilised man’. The Murrumbidgee Irrigation scheme was established in 1912 following construction of the Burrinjuck Dam, Berembed Weir and 139 kilometres of irrigation canals. This enabled Griffith to become a thriving oasis and the food bowl of Australia.

Life in Griffith revolves around food and wine. The town holds many festivals throughout the year showcasing the fruits of their labour. One of the quirkiest displays is the annual citrus sculptures during Spring Fest where more than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art.

The annual citrus sculptures, Griffith
More than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art. (Image: Andrew Mclean)

Griffith is one of Australia’s most vibrant cosmopolitan centres. With a population over 26,000, Griffith exudes a rich blend of culture and traditions, today more than 70 nationalities make up its cultural tapestry which includes Italian, Indian, Afghani and Pacific communities. Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. You can’t leave without enjoying a ‘rocket toppa’ pizza, a bowl of gnocchi and a cannoli. Leaving hungry is never an option.

Zecca restaurant, Griffith
Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. (Image: Karly Sivewright)

Carrathool & Surrounds

Quirky fact: The Black Stump Hotel in Merriwagga has the tallest bar in the Southern Hemisphere; in a precursor to the traditional drive through, the bar here was a ride through, said to be built so that local stockmen could ride their horses up to the bar and order a drink without dismounting.

 

Part outdoor gallery, part junkyard, Wally’s Junk Art Gallery at Rankins Springs, 75 kilometres from Griffith, is the domain of local artist Raymond Lamont, known to all as Wally.

His totally unique sculptures, everything from animals and airplanes to life-sized people, are created using all manner of vintage bits and pieces, from tractor and machinery parts to old railway plates to disused gas bottles and light bulbs. There’s a $6.50 entry fee, but you get a cup of coffee and a chat with Wally for free!

 

Situated in a valley of the Cocoparra Ranges in Rankins Springs, Selby is a 3000 hectares-plus certified-organic farm owned by Ron and Andrea Finch, located near Rankins Springs.

You can stay the night in The Shack, the renovated shearers’ quarters, arriving to home-baked goodies (courtesy of Andrea) and feasting on a breakfast that includes farm fresh eggs (when the resident hens oblige). Spend your days walking, relaxing and feeding the sheep, and at night gaze at the sky to your heart’s content.

Mustering sheep at sunset, Carathool
Mustering sheep at sunset. (Image: G Rixon)

Cobar & Surrounds

Quirky fact: There are 99 countries in the world that are smaller than Cobar (total land size 45,609 kilometres square) including Switzerland, Denmark and Lebanon. Perhaps fittingly, Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid, a minted medallion that can be exchanged for goods and services at participating local businesses to encourage residents to shop local.

Cobar sign, Cobar
Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid.

Held in Cobar every April, the Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment. The roster of events includes a buffet dinner dance, picnic concert, markets, Sunday fun day and, of course, a parade. Dressing up is strongly recommended.

Grey Mardi Gras, Cobar
The Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment.

In its heyday, the Great Cobar Copper Mine was processing ore at a staggering rate of 1000 tons per day, employed 2000 people and provided lighting for the whole town via its electric generators. There’s a museum to visit at the now retired site, and you can see the main mine shaft nearby (now fenced off) which plunges down to 430 metres.

Great Cobar Copper Mine, Cobar
The Great Cobar Copper Mine at sunset.

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Bourke & Surrounds

Quirky fact: It was the Scottish/Australian poet Will Ogilvie, a contemporary of Banjo Paterson and Henry Lawson (and friend of Harry ‘Breaker’ Morant), who coined the now iconic term ‘back o’ Bourke’ in his poem, At the back o’ Bourke.

 

The grave of the bushranger Midnight, who was shot and killed on 2 October 1878, can be found to the west of the village of Enngonia. Midnight, also known as Thomas/Alexander Law, George Gibson and Henry Wilson, was responsible for the murder of Senior Sergeant Thomas Wallings, a father of eight children, who was shot while attempting to capture the bushranger after his escape from Parramatta Gaol.

Aerial view over Bourke
An aerial view over Bourke.

But this wasn’t the first shoot out to take place in Enngonia; on October 6, 1868 the notorious bushranger Captain Starlight (real name Frank Pearson) was involved in a gun fight at the Shearer’s Inn during which he shot Constable John McCabe after the trooper confronted him and fellow bushranger Charles Rutherford.

The officer died almost a month later from his injuries, and Pearson was found hiding in cave in December; the details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Back-O-Bourke-gallery, Bourke
The details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Get out of the car and stretch your legs at Gundabooka National Park. The headliner here is the Mulgowan (Yappa) Aboriginal Art site walking track, with stunning rock paintings by the local Ngemba and Paakandji people depicting animals, dancers, hand stencils and hunting tools.

Having conquered the track, spend a little extra time to check out the nearby Gundabooka Range and Mulareenya Creek, where traditional ceremonies were once held.

It’s not an Aussie drive worth writing about if there isn’t something ‘big’ to wonder at along the way.

Given its reputation as a top quality yabby fishing spot, it was only a matter for time before a giant version of the crustacean cropped up on the landscape, specifically on the Warrego River at Fords Bridge.

Stop for a photo and then grab lunch at the nearby Warrego Hotel, built in 1913 from mud brick, the only pub of its type thought to be still standing.

Catania Fruit Salad Farm, Griffith
Driving through Catania Fruit Salad Farm, near Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)

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Why the Central Coast is a foodie mecca

    Elise Cullen Elise Cullen
    Underpinned by grassroots hospitality and award-winning organic produce, the Central Coast’s gastronomy scene is thriving, with the region quickly becoming one of the best destinations in NSW for epicures.

    Revered for its rugged natural splendour and laid-back seaside charm, NSW’s Central Coast has soared in popularity in recent years, becoming a top choice for an affordable slice of weekend escapism for Sydneysiders. Just a short 45-minute drive north of Sydney, it’s the kind of place that, no matter how many times you visit, leaves you with the sense that there’s always more to uncover. But while the ocean pools, bushwalks and beaches have (rightly) taken the spotlight, it’s the Central Coast food offerings which have been quietly simmering in the background.

    From fresh-as-it-gets seafood and juicy organic citrus you can pluck yourself, through to regenerative farming and reputable farm-to-fork dining, this coastal gem has become an idyllic foodie mecca. Here are some of the best ways to immerse yourself in grassroots hospitality and gastronomic glory on the NSW Central Coast.

    vegetables in a basket at Bells Garden at Bells At Killcare
    From picking your own, to farm-to-table, discover the best Central Coast food experiences. (Image: Remy Brand)

    Central Coast oyster experiences

    From humble grub to opulent delicacy, oysters have ascended into a league of their own. Epicureans are fascinated by them – willing to pay upwards of $35 per dozen (double at some of Sydney’s reputable fine dining restaurants) – and ‘shuck bars’ seem to be popping up at every milestone celebration.

    But it’s rare to find places that really draw back the curtain on how they’re farmed and why everyone is mad for these molluscs. The Central Coast, however, is home to several of these venues. With its pristine waters, mild climate and nutrient-rich estuaries, it’s the perfect breeding ground for oysters.

    Learn about oyster farming and, importantly, how to shuck them at Sydney Oyster Farm Tours. Nestled on the Hawkesbury River at Mooney Mooney, Sheridan Beaumont and her team offer a hands-on foodie experience where you can feast on dozens of oysters (white tablecloth and all) while wading through the calm waters. You can even bring your own bottle of bubbles to wash them down.

    guests in the water for an experience at Sydney Oyster Farm - Central Coast food
    Learn tricks of the trade at Sydney Oyster Farm Tours. (Image: Remy Brand)

    Elevate your oyster knowledge even further by heading north over the Hawkesbury River Bridge to the Hawkesbury River Oyster Shed. Tour their scenic oyster leases and saltwater paddocks by boat to uncover the distinct characteristics of the Sydney rock oyster and creamy Pacific oyster. They’ve also partnered with Broken Bay Pearl Farm to offer a one-of-a-kind oyster and pearl farming guided tour, showcasing the Central Coast’s very own pearl oyster, the Broken Bay ‘Akoya’. But if you’re simply in the mood to devour a dozen delectable oysters while soaking in the tranquil river views, pull up a chair at the shed. It’s friendly in every sense of the word: pets, families and BYO welcome.

    shucking oysters at Broken Bay Pearl Farm
    Taste freshly shucked oysters at Broken Bay Pearl Farm. (Image: James Horan)

    Central Coast farms to pick your own fruit

    While the Central Coast is known for its breathtaking 40 beaches and 80-kilometre coastline, its lush hinterland is equally impressive – abundant with orchards and agriculturally rich farmland. And when it comes to the simple joy of picking your own fruit, the Central Coast is a ripe playground.

    Family-owned Meliora Farm at Peats Ridge is an orchard that blends conventional, biodynamic and organic philosophies. Third-generation farmer Tim Kemp and his wife Elise are dedicated to honouring the family legacy by growing a rich variety of oranges, lemons, limes, mandarins and avocados. In late May, roam the sustainable and nutrient-dense property during ‘Pick Your Own’ weekends.

    Eastcoast Beverages is another bountiful citrus orchard boasting over 60 hectares of fruit. From June you can learn about the cultivation of high-quality ingredients – like lemons, limes, grapefruit and oranges – by touring both the farm and factory before setting out and picking your own straight from the source. You can also sample an array of citrus-inspired sweet and savoury treats at their on-site cafe, Bambino’s.

    If it’s just juicy oranges you’re after, Cedar Farm in Dooralong is a must-visit. Located about 30 minutes north of Peats Ridge, it features 15 flourishing orchards and over 3000 orange trees – with take-home bags during the season (from July) at low prices. Not bad for a fruity weekend haul.

    woman picking oranges at Oranges at Dooralong
    Pick your own citrus fruits on the Central Coast. (Image: James Vodicka)

    Organic dining

    What makes the Central Coast hinterland so special is the unwavering respect the communities have for their cherished backyard. Locally owned and operated farms are all striving for more sustainable practices and methods to both enhance biodiversity and reduce environmental impact, each with a heartwarming food philosophy.

    The Food Farm in Wyong Creek believes good food is worth both the work and the wait. Devoted to regenerative farming, first-generation ‘farmily’ Tim Eyes and Hannah Greenshields are recognised for their grass-fed, grass-finished beef and pasture-raised, gold medal-winning chickens. With an open gate policy, The Food Farm encourages visitors to swing by and try some of their slow-grown produce at their small ‘honesty’ farm shop. With no staff, you can pick up a few quality cuts of meat and pasteurised eggs, leaving the owing amount in cash or via eftpos.

    Keeping the spirit of generational organic farming alive is Fanelli Organics. Nestled in the Central Coast’s scenic and sleepy Mangrove Mountain, founders Eden and Louise Fanelli own over 45 hectares of plentiful farmland and orchards that produce a huge range of organic fruit and vegetables, like purple Dutch carrots, blood oranges, broccoli and Tuscan kale. A true home-grown operation, Fanelli Organics shares its fresh produce with local restaurants and community markets, including the beloved markets at Like Minds Cafe at Avoca Beach every Wednesday afternoon.

    farmers holding fresh produce picked at Fanelli Organics
    See where your food comes from at Fanelli Organics.

    Paddock-to-plate dining

    High-quality ingredients go hand in hand with premium dining, and the Central Coast is home to several paddock-to-plate restaurants that showcase its diverse and rich agriculture. Paired with warm, grassroots hospitality, there are culinary triumphs, new menus and revered chefs constantly popping up, putting the local dining scene firmly on the map.

    Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce. Nestled in thick bushland with wraparound verandahs, floral gardens and an idyllic dam, the gourmet homestead and bakehouse is unlike any restaurant on the Central Coast. Here, head chef Reece Collins and his team serve up an impressive breakfast and lunch menu that oozes rustic charm. Pull up a comfy armchair on the expansive deck, listen to birdsong, and tuck into flavoursome dishes like the farmhouse Benedict with honey-cured ham, lemon myrtle hollandaise and Warrigal gremolata, or the hearty beef brisket pie with confit garlic potato purée and rainbow chard.

    woman writing in notebook next to a table of food at Saddles, Central Coast food
    Taste country-style cooking at Saddles. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Delivering a slice of sophistication and luxury to the shores and bushland of Bouddi Peninsula is Bells at Killcare. One of the few boutique resorts on the Central Coast, it’s known for its premium service and five-star suites, as well as its bountiful kitchen gardens that boast an orchard, olive trees, avocado trees, free-range hens and a honey bee hive.

    Cameron Cansdell has returned to Bells at Killcare as head chef, bringing his expertise to the casual yet refined menus that feature a raw bar with Oscietra caviar, freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters and Moreton Bay bugs, all served alongside optional matched wines. Sample some of Australia’s best regional wines and standout dishes, like roasted Wollemi duck with grilled leeks, rocket, grilled grapes and 10-year-aged balsamic, or the shareworthy salt-crusted snapper with herb salad and salsa, before roaming the picturesque gardens, wine in hand.

    cocktail at Bells At Killcare
    Sample incredible wine, cocktails and dishes at Bells At Killcare. (Image: Nikki To)

    Plan your next visit to the delicious Central Coast.