On Holidays… with Rick Stein

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Rick Stein is a prolific celebrity chef with 22 cook books and a 25-year TV series to his credit. But what does the seafood master do when he gets some time to himself?

How do you unwind?
I love nothing better than having about 20 or so family and friends over to our beach house, Rick’s Place, in Mollymook, NSW, for an Aussie barbecue.

I love cooking whole snapper with a layer of fennel between the bars of the grill.

Opening a few cans of VB, I have been a fan since my first voyage in 1967.

Listening to The Whitlams – and the ocean, perfection.

What were your impressions on your first visit to Australia?
It was in 1967, I arrived by ship at Woolloomooloo but soon found the Northern Beaches and the Newport Arms, Aussie hamburgers, chocolate malted milkshakes.

I was only 19 and wouldn’t have recognised fine dining if there was any, but gosh I loved those burgers and shakes.

What’s your favourite place in Australia to holiday?
Mollymook in New South Wales, it’s my wife, Sas, childhood memories of idyllic summer holidays by the sea, which have so coloured my own experience of this beautiful part of Australia.

Must-pack item in your suitcase? 
I always take a book of poems called By Heart compiled by Ted Hughes.

The point of the book is to learn them all, by heart. I’ve been working on that for 15 years

Beach, mountains or country?
Apart from occasional skiing trips to Switzerland or Austria – when I say to myself , “we must do this every winter" – it’s always the beach for me.

It doesn’t matter what country because I love to swim, particularly in cold but not too cold water.

A hotel that makes you feel at home?
Our friends Alistair and Athena McAlpine own a convent in Marittima, Diso (in Puglia), which they have converted in to a nine-bedroom hotel.

It’s filled with art from Australia, India, Africa and Mexico. The food, local cooking from Puglia, is so good that we never leave the convent or its lovely gardens to eat out elsewhere.

I love it so much that my wife, Sas, and  I have been going every July with her children for the last 10 years.

Your favourite holiday bottle of wine?
I was introduced to a delicious provençale rosé called Chateau Miravale in St Tropez. Much hyped locally because it’s made by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie .

How often would we get to see you at Bannisters (Rick’s restaurant)?
I come to Bannisters between five to six times a year. I love to go into the kitchen for a hour and just start at the pass (where the dishes are finished off). Just enjoy the atmosphere, while making a few pertinent comments.

Also great sitting at the bar with a gin and lime sorbet cocktail so people can come up and chat.

 

Rick’s latest book India: Search for the Perfect Curry is available through Random House and his memoirs will be released in October 2013.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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8 ways to discover a new side of Port Stephens

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
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    Aussies might think they know what Port Stephens is all about – but it’s time to take another look.

    You might’ve driven through this NSW coast town. Maybe even stopped for fish and chips or a quick dip. But spend a long weekend in the new Port Stephens, and you’ll seriously regret not doing it sooner. We’re talking treks across beaches, reef dives and up-close time with rescued koalas.

    All in all? It only takes a day before you see Port Stephens in a whole new light, and not much longer until it’s locked in as your favourite family destination.

    1. Stockton Sand Dunes

    Port Stephens incredible Stockton Sand Dunes are the largest moving sand mass in the Southern Hemisphere. They shift like an endless magic trick across the Worimi Conservation Lands, a 4200-hectare coastal co-managed by the Traditional Owners.

    Tear over them in a 4WD. Rev through valleys soft as melting ice cream on a quad. Carve down 30-metre slopes on a sandboard. However you choose to cross them, you’re guaranteed a seriously wild ride.

    Four rugged 4WDs kick up trails of golden dust as they charge across the sweeping desert landscape.
    Chase thrills across shifting sands. (Image: Destination NSW)

    2. Scale Tomaree Head Summit Walk

    A short climb through bushland opens up to the coastal drama of Tomaree Head. Spot Zenith, Wreck and Box Beaches. See the Fingal Island lighthouse and offshore rookeries where Australia’s rarest seabird, the Gould’s petrel, nests.

    History buffs can’t miss the WWII gun emplacements. And if you’re hiking between May and November, bring binoculars. Travelling whales might just be breaching below.

    Friends enjoying a scenic walk along the Tomaree Head Summit Walk in Tomaree National Park, Port Stephens.
    Climb Tomaree Head for jaw-dropping coastal views. (Image: Destination NSW)

    3. Watch out for whales

    You’ve seen the spouts of migrating humpbacks and southern right whales from shore. Set sail from Nelson Bay to see them up close. Cruise straight into the action, with tail-slaps, barrel rolls and all.

    And they’ve got competition from the local show-offs. Port Stephens bottlenose dolphins leap and play. Some tours even spot pudgy fur seals, spending lazy days soaking up the sun on Cabbage Tree Island.

    A whale’s tail on the sea’s surface.
    Watch for ocean tails. (Image: Destination NSW)

    4. Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary

    Pop into the Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary to learn about the rescued koalas who climb, nap, snack and heal in this natural patch of bushland. Wander the immersive Sanctuary Story Walk to discover more about their habits, then head to the SKYwalk – a treetop platform constructed for spotting these eucalyptus-loving locals. Peek into the hospital’s viewing window, where sick or injured koalas may be resting in their recovery enclosures.

    Not enough time around these adorable marsupials? Stay overnight in silk-lined glamping tents.

    Koala sleeping in a tree at Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary, One Mile
    See koalas in their natural habitat. (Image: Destination NSW)

    5. Diving Port Stephens

    Port Stephens has some of NSW’s best dive spots. At Fly Point, float through sponge gardens and coral castles thick with nudibranchs (AKA sea slugs). Halifax Park has blue gropers and crimson-banded wrasse, while Shoal Bay’s seagrass meadows hide pipefish, cuttlefish and octopus.

    Accessible only by boat, Broughton Island is home to a vast array of marine (and bird) life. Snorkel with blue devilfish and stingrays at sites like The Looking Glass and North Rock. More experienced divers can head out with one of the many PADI-certified operators.

    At nearby Cabbage Tree Island, expect to see shaggy-faced wobbegongs cruising along.

    A couple suited up and ready to dive into adventure.
    Suit up and dive into Port Stephens’ vibrant marine life. (Image: Destination NSW)

    6. Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters

    Not quite ready to dive in? Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters is the perfect way to spot local marine life without getting too deep. But there’s no obnoxious glass tank tapping here. Instead, this interactive aquarium allows guests to wade into natural-style lagoons that mimic the real thing.

    Gently pat Port Jackson and bamboo sharks, hand-feed rays, and feel their sandpapery skin with your fingertips. It is all under expert guidance. If you want to go deeper, pop on a wetsuit and swim alongside tawny nurse sharks, white-tipped reef sharks and zebra sharks in the lagoon.

    Family enjoying an animal feeding experience at Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters, Anna Bay.
    Meet the ocean’s friendliest faces at Irukandji. (Image: Destination NSW)

    7. Fish the estuaries

    Fishing fanatics will fall for Port Stephens hook, line and sinker. Here, one of the largest estuary systems in the whole state sees tidal rivers and mangrove ecosystems. Waterfronts are thick with oysters, and residential fish that might include anything from bream, whiting and flathead, to blue swimmer crabs, kingfish and longtail tuna.

    If you prefer to choose your own adventure and fish offshore, you can hire a boat from one of the marinas and set your own course.

    three men fishing on a boat in port stephens
    Join a tour or chart your own fishing trip. (Image: Destination NSW)

    8. Taste new Port Stephens flavours

    With plenty of activity to fill your days, refuelling on delectable cuisine becomes equally important. And Port Stephens answers the call.

    Pop into Holbert’s Oyster Farm for fresh-farmed Port Stephens rock oysters and Pacific oysters, Australian king and tiger prawns, as well as a variety of tasty sauces to try them with.

    Take a group to Atmos for an authentic Greek experience over large shared dishes and Greek-inspired cocktails. Or feast on sea-to-plate, modern Australian dishes at the pet-friendly Restaurant 2317.

    A plate of fresh oysters.
    Slurp your way through the region’s best oysters. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Start planning your Port Stephens getaway at portstephens.org.au.

    On Holidays… with Rick Stein - Australian Traveller