Sketching the country onboard the Great Southern

hero media
The Great Southern that connects Brisbane and Adelaide is a rail journey of a lifetime, rendering a vivid image of the vast landscapes it traverses.

Distance is not measured in kilometres onboard the Great Southern that travels between Brisbane and Adelaide. Instead, vignettes of rural Australia serve as waymarkers: A white mare flicking its tail on the emerald slopes of the Byron hinterland; A lone shack – weatherboarded and timeworn – perched by the briny banks of the Hawkesbury River; Silos rising from the golden grasslands of regional Victoria, rendered tender in the honeyed glow of the evening sun.

In the early 20th century, Australian bush poet Henry Lawson popularised ‘the sketch’ – a literary form consisting of a short, descriptive narrative containing little plot, if any at all. Before the advent of mainstream photography, ‘the sketch’ served to evoke the essence of a place and transport readers, however briefly, into an unfamiliar world.

feet relaxing by the window of a train, The Great Southern
While away the day by the window.

Journeying aboard the Great Southern feels analogous. From the window of my cabin, pastoral scenes rush by, fading from view just as quickly as they enter. The motion of the train melds the colours – all dusty greens, mottled browns and smoky greys – into painterly impressions, rough sketches of life in the country.

Just like ‘the sketch’, there is no plot to the sequence; each scene is stitched together only by threads of the imagination that conjure up fleeting images of what life might look like in the places we pass by. In another life, I’m watching the train pass me instead. From the quaint cottage with a horse in its paddock. The sun-bleached porch of the riverside shack. The dinky little farmhouse on Victorian cattle country.

Over four states, three days and 2885 kilometres of railroad, the Great Southern renders a sketch of the country. It’s a mammoth journey that takes in diverse landscapes, food and people from all walks of life.

The Great Southern passing through Boambee Creek
The Great Southern traces the country from coast to bush.

Tracking down dinner in Coffs Harbour

Smoke perfumes the air like incense as we’re welcomed to Gumbaynggirr Country. A crescent moon hangs above us like an opalescent crack in the sky, dusk mellowing the coastal hues of the landscape, now a delicate wash of seafoam, terracotta and ivory. We’ve disembarked at Coffs Harbour for the Great Southern’s first off-train excursion, a beachside dinner that showcases al fresco dining at its very finest.

an aerial view of the Great Southern train passing through Coffs Harbour
The 700-metre-plus Great Southern train passes through Coffs Harbour on NSW’s North Coast.

Long tables have been set out, dressed in fresh white and festooned with fairy lights, perfectly encapsulating the airy coastal charm of the setting. Caterers have plated up a taste of the region. There are oysters from Nambucca Heads, so fresh the brackishness is palpable. Beef from Casino paired with potatoes from Dorrigo (aka ‘spud country’). And, best of all, local bananas that have been crafted into sumptuous bites of banoffee tart for dessert.

As we dine, we’re accompanied by the sound of the ocean’s churn, the croon of a live jazz band and the ebullient buzz of chatter among fellow passengers getting to know one another. They may be strangers now, but once the train reaches its terminus, many will disembark as friends. This is thanks to the social nature of the Great Southern, where the lounge and bar car serve as the communal hub and beating heart of the train. Back onboard, I make a beeline for the bar as soon as I hear the engine begin to hiss and groan into motion.

an al fresco dinner by the beach in Coffs Harbour
Enjoy an evening to remember by the beach in Coffs Harbour.

A snapshot of daily life onboard

The carriage is flush with crimson and gold, Tasmanian Blackwood timber and Art Deco flourishes – a nod to an era when rail travel was in its prime. Entering the bar feels like stepping into a Hitchcock film. It’s not just the old-world feel of it all – I’m walking in the opposite direction of motion, giving the surreal effect of the filmmaker’s infamous ‘Dolly Zoom’ as I approach the bar.

wine and food onboard The Great Southern
Enjoy a tipple from the comfort of your private cabin.

I order a nightcap of Baileys over ice and soak in the evening’s entertainment – singalong tunes courtesy of guitarist and vocalist Kev Jones. The vintage theme is reflected in the song choices – Kev has come prepared with an arsenal of golden oldies, from Billie Holiday to The Beatles and Elvis’s entire discography.

Kev singles me out to sing the vocals on ABBA’s Dancing Queen and, despite my best efforts to decline the invitation, I end up in front of the car, reluctantly holding the microphone. I’m not singing the right lyrics, in the right key, or even the right tune. But none of that matters. The whole carriage is singing along with me, erupting when it comes to the chorus. The train hurtles on through the night.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Riding on a night train

When I retire to my cabin, I find that the room has miraculously been made up, the couch transformed into a cosy, single berth. I settle in, keeping the blinds open so I can watch the skeletal silhouettes of the eucalypts whizz past.

the JBRE Accommodation Platinum Service Cabin bed onboard the Great Southern
Couches are transformed into comfy beds come nightfall.

There’s something enduringly romantic about riding a night train; the latent sense of adventure; the link to a bygone era; the fact that it’s a prevailing, almost archetypal symbol in literature and folk music.

Henry Lawson surmised the sentiment best in On The Night Train, a poem he wrote in 1922 that would also be one of his last: Have you seen the bush by moonlight, from the train, go running by? / Blackened log and stump and sapling, ghostly trees all dead and dry.

I think of all who have taken in similar vistas before me, swagmen stowing away on freight trains as they moved through the country, commuters and coal miners throughout the ages. Sleep finds me eventually, and I’m rocked into a restful repose by the rumbling of the locomotive charging due south.

The Great Southern railway tracks
The Great Southern railway tracks connect Brisbane and Adelaide.

A stopover in Port Stephens

There are no roads to Tin City. Instead, I’m bouncing over sand dunes in the back of a 4WD bus as our guide, Craig Hallam, steers us onto Stockton Beach in Newcastle, NSW. While the majority of passengers have opted for a wine-tasting excursion in the Hunter, an intrepid few of us have set out exploring Port Stephens by land.

The evening primrose flowers leap out in contrast against the overcast grey of the morning. A colony of pied oystercatchers totter across the beach, poking their orange bills in the sand in search of pipis. A white-bellied sea eagle sits regally, hidden among the scrub. “These are the largest moving sand dunes in the southern hemisphere," Craig booms over the intercom as fellow passengers and I rock and sway in our seats.

Port Stephens 4WD Tours on Stockton Beach
Explore Stockton Beach with Port Stephens 4WD Tours.

A Sahara-like scene looms behind us, mighty dunes that can rise up to 30 metres tall and reach a gradient of more than that of the world’s steepest ski pistes. This is the backdrop to Tin City, a shantytown of a dozen shacks at the end of the beach. Originally built for shipwrecked sailors in the early 1900s, the settlement mushroomed in the Great Depression of the ’30s. Now, there are just three permanent residents.

Each shack is a motley patchwork of scrap metal, taking ‘off-grid living’ to a new level. The height of tech here is a beer keg strapped to the roof of a resident’s house “so the sun can heat the water for hot showers".

If this sounds like something straight out of Mad Max, that’s because it is – Tin City appeared in the original 1979 action flick. But stranger than fiction is the real-life post-apocalyptic undertones of the beach. Traces of the region’s Second World War military history are very much alive today, in unearthed explosives scattered across the sand. “Every few years, they’ll uncover something they didn’t know was here," Craig explains. Recently, a bomb had to be blown up onsite and, not long before that, a dog presented its owner with an unexploded military mortar during a game of fetch.

A beer can’s kick away, two residents sit chatting beneath the shade of one of the shacks. On the roof, a black flag flutters in the wind. There’s something drawn on it that I can’t quite make out, so I ask Craig if he knows what it is. “I sure do," he replies with a chuckle. “It’s the Jack Daniels logo."

the desert town of Tin City
Tin City is an off-grid shantytown dating back to the early 1900s.

Weekly travel news, experiences
insider tips, offers, and more.

Travelling over the Hawkesbury River

Launched in 2019, Great Southern is the latest to join Journey Beyond’s fleet of great Australian rail journeys. Although it’s in its infancy compared to historic trains such as The Ghan, what the Great Southern lacks in age it makes up for in vistas.

“As far as I’m concerned, the [Great Southern] is certainly a superior journey for the scenery," says Bruce Smith, service operation manager of the train. And he would know. Bruce has worked on trains for 28 years, journeying all over the country with passengers among the likes of late PM Bob Hawke, singer Paul Kelly and actress Margot Robbie. Bruce isn’t the type to get starstruck, but certain sections of the route never fail to arrest him. The Hawkesbury River is one of them, and its bush-clad banks and gleaming boat-flecked bays are rolling into view now.

Aerial view of Hawkesbur River Rail Bridge
Arresting views of the Hawkesbury River can be seen as you pass over the bridge. (Image: Elias Bitar via Getty Images)

We cross over the Hawkesbury River railway bridge, which was the final link connecting the rail network between Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Built in 1889, it was a major feat of 19th-century engineering. I imagine the first train passengers crossing it, hovering over the dimpled green water for nearly a kilometre, vaulting towards the warm sandstone shades of Darkinjung Country, captivated by it all as I am now.

A winery stop in Inverleigh

We alight in Inverleigh in regional Victoria, where we spend the afternoon lingering over a long lunch at the family-owned Clyde Park Winery. Nearly all the ingredients come from within a 20-kilometre radius. There’s local duck served glazed and sticky on a woodfired Peking duck pizza, roast lamb from ‘just across the river’ that’s been rubbed generously with herbs from the garden and succulent pork belly from a nearby farm. I sample the pinot noir: the crisp cherry, strawberry and rosewater notes refreshing my palate between bites.

food and wine on the table at Clyde Park
Clyde Park draws upon local produce. (Image: Carl Wilson)

I return to the train so stuffed that I’m forced to pass on dinner, but I opt for a drink in the Queen Adelaide dining car to soak up the ambience. The sunset pierces the window, illuminating the bubbles rising in my Champagne glass and flooding the carriage with a honeyed hue.

the green landscape of Moorabool Valley at Clyde Park
Be ensconced in the greens of the Moorabool Valley as you wine and dine at Clyde Park. (Image: Carl Wilson)
a staff of an Art Deco-inspired Queen Adelaide dining car holding plates of food
Settle into an Art Deco-inspired Queen Adelaide dining car. (Image: Cam Inniss)

I watch snapshots of the country flash by in the day’s final light. Stringy eucalypts reflecting in glassy patches of water. Cows roaming across the tawny grass. Haze filming over mountains in the distance. These are the final wayposts on the route of the Great Southern, completing the final leg of its journey through the nation’s bucolic heart.

Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set Australian Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.
Liz Whitehead
Elizabeth Whitehead is a writer obsessed with all things culture; doesn't matter if it's pop culture or cultures of the world. She graduated with a degree in History from the University of Sydney (after dropping out from Maths). Her bylines span AFAR, Lonely Planet, ELLE, Harper's BAZAAR and Refinery 29. Her work for Australian Traveller was shortlisted for single article of the year at the Mumbrella Publishing Awards 2024. She is very lucky in thrifting, very unlucky in UNO.
View profile and articles
hero media

7 Kimberley experiences that need to be on your bucket list

From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.

Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.

From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.

Why Silversea?

Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.

Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.

silversea cruise ship pool deck
Take a dip in the pool deck.

1. Koolama Bay

​​Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.

Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.

King George Falls at koolama bay excursion on Silversea Kimberley Cruise
Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.

2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt

Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.

Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.

welcome to country on freshwater cove during silversea kimberley cruise
Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)

Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.

The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.

aerial view of Vansittart Bay, See it in you Silversea Kimberley Cruise.
Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

4. Horizontal Falls

Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.

With each tidal shift,  the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley’s most mesmerising natural wonders.

Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". They are formed from a break in-between the McLarty Ranges reaching up to 25m in width. The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high on a King tide.
Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

5. Montgomery Reef

As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.

The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel,  turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.

Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.

aerial view of boat going along Montgomery Reef
Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.

6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter

Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.

One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions, guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.

Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.

aerial view of mitchell falls on silversea helicopter excursion
See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art

The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant

Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.

Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.

Freshwater Cover Rock Art the kimberleys
Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

See the best of this incredible part of the world on a Silversea Kimberley cruise. Book your 10- or extended 16-day expedition voyage at silversea.com

The Great Southern Rail Journey - Australian Traveller