Driving the Big Lap of Australia – 12 things to know

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Dreaming about driving off into the sunset and doing a big lap of Australia?

Travel writer and photographer Lee Atkinson has just returned from an epic 10-month, 40,000km road trip around the country, and written a book about it (see below). Here are her top 12 road trip travel hacks you need to know before you hit the road.

1. What to drive

You don’t need a 4WD to drive around Australia, but you do need low range gearing to reach some of the most beautiful bits, because the really wild, wondrous places are almost always in out of the way places. If you are towing a van or camper trailer opt for a turbodiesel, because this type of engine works more efficiently than a petrol for towing and diesel is more readily available in remote areas. And go for an automatic, because autos allow you to just stick it in drive and concentrate on other things.

lower tyre pressure
Deep sand means it’s time to lower tyre pressures (photo: Lee Atkinson).

2. To tow or not to tow?

The number one mistake most people make when choosing whether to buy a caravan, motorhome or camper trailer is to think in terms of what it will be like to live in, rather than where they can take it. If you’re planning to spend most of your time on main roads and want to stay in towns or caravan parks, a caravan or motorhome is a great option. But if your idea of a good time is taking the roads less travelled and getting out into national parks and wild places a camper trailer or a roof-top tent is a better choice. Bigger is not always better. There’s an exponential relationship between the size of your caravan or trailer and the extent to which you can get off the beaten track.

3. Before you go…

If you’ve never been outback or off-road before sign up for a 4WD training course. It will teach you how to use the vehicle to its full potential, how to get yourself out of tight spots and, most importantly, how to use recovery gear. Google ‘4WD driver training’. Same goes for towing: not only do you get plenty of time, and traffic-free space, to learn how to manoeuvre and reverse park your vehicle with a caravan or trailer in tow, you’ll also pick up lots of technical and safety information and handy tips. Tow-ed operates courses in most capital cities and regional centres and will lend you a van if you want to learn before you buy.

Colourful campsite Rainbow Cliffs Arnhem Land
Colourful campsite, Rainbow Cliffs, Arnhem Land (photo: Lee Atkinson).

4. What tools do you need?

A basic tool kit should include a jack, jacking plate and wheel replacement tools, spare tyre, fire extinguisher, emergency fuel supplies (if heading off the beaten track), engine oil, coolant, jumper leads and spare radiator hoses and fan belts and the tools you’ll need to replace them – check out YouTube for DIY tips and bush mechanic lessons. Don’t even think about leaving home without ultimate get-out-of-jail repair kit: cable ties, gaffa tape and fencing wire – with these you can fix just about anything.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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5. Getting out of trouble

Getting stuck is inevitable when you’re travelling off the beaten track. You can spend a fortune on fancy recovery gear but there are five things you really can’t do without: we took a pair of Maxx Trax ramps, which you put under the wheels when you’re bogged in sand or mud. They give the tyres something to grip and, as a rule, will launch you out of trouble easily. We also had a long-handled shovel for digging and a snatch strap for those moments when all else failed – all we needed then was somebody else to come along to pull us out, but it was never used. The best way to not get bogged in the first place is to drop tyre pressures to 20psi or less, so we also carried a quality air compressor and an accurate pressure gauge.

6. Essential kit

Never travel without a first aid kit and always carry extra drinking water. Mobile phone coverage can be non-existent in the outback. Hire (or buy) a satellite phone so you can call for help if needed. Some tourist information centres in remote areas have sat phones you can hire, or visit Satellite Hire or  Rent a Sat Phone.

Lee Atkinson's Big Lap map.
Lee Atkinson’s Big Lap map.

7. Map it out

Fighting over which is the right way to go is a major cause of holiday (and marital) breakdown. Don’t rely on the mapping app on your phone – invest in a good GPS. We used Hema Navigator, which features off-road tracks as well as major highways.

8. Keep in touch

These days you can get most of your bills, banks statements etc electronically, which means you can keep the home fires burning relatively easily. Skype is the best thing ever for keeping in touch with friends and family for next to nix. We carried laptops and a 4G mobile wi-fi modem which connects up to 10 devices. Telstra’s the only network that consistently works outside of capital cities.

Troubridge Point Yorke Peninsula SA
Coast hugging, Troubridge Point, Yorke Peninsula, SA (photo: Lee Atkinson).

9. Where to go when

Clockwise or anti-clockwise, that’s the million-dollar question when you’re about to head off on the Big Lap. Whether you turn left or right out of your driveway depends on when you go – if it’s summer, head south, if it’s winter, head north or aim for the red centre. The wet season, which cuts roads and closes national parks anywhere north of the Tropic of Capricorn, can be anytime from November through to May, although it (usually) really only starts to rain in mid to late December and can be all over by April.

The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),
The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),

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10. How long will it take?

How long have you got? Know that however long you go for, it won’t be enough – Australia’s a big place and you could spend a lifetime and still not see it all. On the other hand, you’d be amazed at how far you can go in just four weeks. We spent 42 weeks on the road, and didn’t go where most do go, but did go where many people don’t.

11. How much will it cost?

Everyone’s trip is different, depending on what you drive, where you go, where you stay and what you eat and drink. We were in a 4WD and towing an off-road camper trailer. In terms of day-to-day expenses we averaged just under $150 a day, including fuel, camping fees and the occasional night in a pub if the weather was foul, food and alcohol – we probably could have got that down a little if my partner was a better fisherman, and if I’d chosen cheaper wine, but hey, life’s too short!

12. Can I take my dog?

Many caravan parks will accept well-behaved pets on a leash, but always check before you book rather than on arrival. Pets are not allowed in national parks, even for day visits or picnics. If you want to bush camp with pets, choose state forests instead.

You can read all about Lee’s epic road trip in her book, The Big Lap.
The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson

The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson.

 

“We took the road less travelled whenever we could, camping in national parks and other wild places where few other travellers go," says Atkinson. “We found some truly amazing places and saw some fantastic things, and this book is the result, a showcase of some of the most scenic spots in Australia." Featuring hundreds of beautiful images, the book is the pictorial diary of her journey with detailed captions telling the stories behind the images. The Big Lap costs $35, (including postage), from ozyroadtripper.com.au

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How to spend a tasty long weekend in Geelong and the Bellarine

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
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    From rust-coloured foliage and foodie experiences to stunning sunsets, this part of Victoria is best explored as the mild days of winter arrive.

    As the heat of the summer sun subsides and the milder days roll in, the stunning landscapes of Geelong and the Bellarine add pops of colour. The slight chill in the air will stir your taste buds and invite you to explore the peninsula’s foodie hotspots, while the vivid sunsets and cooler evenings will draw you to cosy fireside chats and evening adventures to watch the stars appear one at a time.

    Just over an hour from busy Flinders Street, or a short 25-minute drive from Avalon Airport, Geelong is Melbourne’s cooler, more laid-back cousin with a sparkling marina, stunning surf beaches, impressive museums and a lively foodie scene.

    federal mill geelong in autumn
    Winter is the perfect time to see local sights.

    It’s also the perfect starting point from which to explore the Bellarine Peninsula. Packed full of jaw-dropping scenery, inviting townships and over 40 cellar doors serving up local cool-weather wines, winter here is distinctly beautiful with its change of colours, temperatures and produce.

    Whether you drive or catch the short but incredibly scenic ferry from the Mornington Peninsula, it’s no surprise this region offers up one of Australia’s best long weekend destinations. Here’s how to soak it all up.

    Day 1: Explore Geelong with the locals

    Morning

    Start the day by grabbing breakfast and strong coffee from Pavilion Geelong (try the braised mushrooms on toast) while watching the gentle waves lapping the edge of Corio Bay. After brekkie, join the locals walking along the scenic Art Deco waterfront to explore the historic piers, beautiful beaches and gleaming white yachts in the marina.

    Pavilion Geelong in winter
    Start the day at Pavilion Geelong.

    Afternoon

    After a morning in the sun, venture to the recently refurbished Federal Mill precinct, a grand old woollen mill built in 1915. Explore the industrial history of this area, as well as the gourmet produce on offer, before pulling up a table at the popular Paddock Bakery. Famous for their wood-fired sourdough and tasty pastries, this cafe serves up tasty dishes like their Crème Brûlée doughnuts. Chase your lunch down with an afternoon of gin tasting at Anther Distillery.

    Paddock Bakery Crème Brûlée doughnut
    Try the Paddock Bakery Crème Brûlée doughnuts.

    Night

    For an evening of frivolity and decadence, head back to Geelong for dinner and a show at the newly reopened Geelong Arts Centre. Later, enjoy a mini Negroni with a scoop of Black Pearl Oscietra Gold caviar at the sleek Non Disclosure Bar.

    Day 2: A foodie-centric day in Moorabool Valley

    Morning

    Wake up with the soft winter sun and cooler temperatures, then travel to the lush farmlands and stunning landscapes of Moorabool Valley, the home of Meredith Farm Store. Choose a seat outside in the leafy courtyard and enjoy a tasting platter of fresh produce among the flowers.

    Afternoon

    To explore the area, visit the cellar door at the Moorabool Valley Wine Collective, which encompasses three award-winning winemakers, before stopping by Austin’s Wines for lunch. Not only can you taste over 10 local wines at the dedicated tastings bar, but you can also curate your own cheese platter to eat outside on their shaded deck.

    two people trying the wine at Austin's wines
    Stop by Austin’s Wines for lunch.

    Night

    Continue on your foodie quest with dinner in Newtown at the Asian fusion Two Noble restaurant, or, inside the same venue at Sawyers Arms Tavern, dive into the European flavours of Eileen’s Charcoal Grill on your way back to Geelong.

    table spread at two noble restaurant
    The chef’s hatted Two Noble restaurant is waiting.

    Day 3: Adventures in The Bellarine

    Morning

    For a light breakfast, head 20 minutes out of town to the rustic Ket Baker, an artisan bakery known for their 100% sourdough croissants. Grab a hot cuppa under the gum trees and enjoy the morning chill in the air. Then spend the morning on the foodie-focused Bellarine Taste Trail, visiting local producers like  Bellarine Smokehouse, Flying Brick Cider House and FarmDog Brewing.

    croissants at ket baker
    Enjoy a light breakfast at Ket Baker.

    Lunch

    There’s no better way to enjoy lunch than to make it from scratch. With Harvest Experience’s Pasta & Pinot cooking class, you’ll have a genuine farm-to-plate experience as you learn to make fettuccini and filled ravioli from scratch. Once cooked, sit down, relax and enjoy your hard work with a glass of Bellarine Peninsula pinot noir.

    Afternoon and night

    Burn off your lunch with an afternoon trip to the bayside town of Portarlington, where Australian blue mussels are harvested offshore. Stop by the quirky Ducks Nuts and peruse the trinkets and treasures before making your way to the restored Portarlington Grand Hotel. Built in 1888, this beautiful building now houses four distinct dining experiences, including the new open-air spaces of The Atrium and Lawn, where you can enjoy a local gin as the sun sets over the bay.

    waiter holding mussels at Portarlington Grand Hotel
    Be sure to try Portarlington mussels.

    Start planning your ultimate Geelong & The Bellarine adventure at visitgeelongbellarine.com.au.